Casio FZ1

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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby wjmwpg » Thu Jul 31, 2014 7:57 pm

I think I have this mostly figured out, but there's one part I still have trouble with:

Step 1: load a Casio sample set 3.5" floppy disk into the FZ's internal RAM.

Step 2: export that disk's contents as a .fzf file from the FZ's RAM to computer via MIDI cable?

Step 3: On computer convert the .fzf file to a .hde file using the HxC software

Step 4: Load the .hde file(s) from computer onto SD card

Step 5: Put this SD card into HxC floppy emulator (installed in FZ's drive bay in place of original FZ floppy drive) and load those .hde "disks" for use in FZ RAM.

Now here's the part I can't wrap my head around:

Let's say I get my hands on some "new" FZ sample sets on 3.5" diskettes, now that I've removed the original floppy drive from my FZ, how do I get the files from these new diskettes onto the computer in either .fzf or .hde format? Because surely not every single FZ sample set diskette in existence has already been converted to .fzf and shared somewhere online for easy download . . .

Cheers (like to think I'm thinking things through, or at least trying),
James
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby ahaigh01 » Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:44 pm

Hi James,

Well I haven't yet purchased the HxC yet but I plan on still doing it. Did just buy a collection of FZ floppies off ebay, but they haven't arrived yet.. Your steps 1-5 look correct. But yes, once you have removed the actual floppy drive you face a dilemma. My solution will be based on the fact that I have 2 FZ units and one will retain a floppy drive for loading real floppy disks. Then with the FZ to FZ cable I built I can transfer the banks to the FZ with the HxC installed and save to a virtual floppy. It should be possible to get the data from an FZ disk on a PC that has a floppy drive using Omniflop and then the HxC software. I don't have any first hand experience with this however....
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby wjmwpg » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:57 pm

Thanks for the reply. Posted the same question on another forum and got quite a detailed reply from Jeff at HxC. He outlined 4 or 5 options that would enable me to continue to read and dump FZ diskettes after the HxC emulator install. The last option was a great surprise - Jeff said I could send diskettes to him at HxC and he'd transfer them to .fzf / .hde for me! How's that for customer service?!?
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby Robber1956 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 4:51 pm

Hello,
edited update

i have a problem which I really need to solve.
When connecting the FZ1 to the FZ10 with the FZ to FZ port cable (see previous posting) there is an audible noise of approximately actually +/- 196 hertz (key G3, I said 50Hz before :oops: ) coming from all outputs of both samplers. It's there all the time and is really disturbing. Disconnect the cables and it is gone.
I tried everything like resoldering, earthing and unearthing the power plugs, put them in the same and in different power outlets, different mixer. Kept them away from other power- and datacables, swapped the cable etc. The noise coming from the FZ1 is more distinct than from the FZ10. Even if I shut the FZ10 down it is still coming from the FZ1. The other way around there is less noise.

When transferring data through the port cabkle that becomes audible as well. I guess we all heard that sound before in other audio equipment like synthesizers and digital mixers.

Data transfer itself is no problem and goes smoothly. No corrupted data or time outs.
Did anybody who is using a simalar set up face the same problem?
Is there a solution? Will putting resistors between the pins and wires help? Or is the wiring described by Jeff McClintock in the pdf.file correct?

http://www.warningwillrobinson.com.au/I ... mation.pdf

The main problem of course is that if I want to use the FZ10 and the FZ1 together I want to be able to load the FZ10 through the floppy emulator of the FZ1 using the port cable and not use the floppy drive in the FZ10 or, least of all use mididump.

I will make another cable now because I didn't try a proper shielded cable, just an old 25 wired printercable (need only 16 according to the wiring scheme), but I'm very pessimistic about the result. Worst case scenario is that there is a error in design of CASIO's FZ1 port. That leaves me just using the cable occasionally for data transfer from the FZ10's floppy drive to the FZ1 floppy emulator's SD card and afterwards disconnect the cable. :( Not really an option.
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby Robber1956 » Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:35 am

Robber1956 wrote:Hello, I have a problem which I really need to solve.


It seems that it's solved now. A resistor (don't know yet which one) or preferably a switch will do the trick.

http://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtopi ... 8&start=60
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby Robber1956 » Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:53 am

Hello again,

(some cut and paste from the HxC forum: http://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtopi ... 030#p11030 )

Replaced the backlight panel for the FZ10m yesterday. The old one was real dim already and getting dimmer in time, barely visible in the dark and also caused problems. After a couple of hours in use port cable transmission failed and no sound was coming out anymore.
First I thought it was due to lifting ground. See postings about this subject on the HxC site "Miscellaneous Keyboards/Samplers".
Port transmission faillure happened before, but next day everything worked again as usual. This should have rung a bell.
When there was no sound anymore I knew it had to be the backlight panel so a week ago I ordered two panels from Backlight4you,

http://www.backlight4you.com/index.php/ ... ments.html

A soft-yellow which is now inside (but rather than yellow shows a bright, green glow} and a blue-green as a spare.

How to do this. Well, just get the front panel of the FZ10 of and disconnect and remove the print with the display panel on it. Leave the panel attached to the print! Desolder the LE-panel connecters from the print. The LE-panel might be glued to the print which makes it almost impossible to pull the panel out underneath the display. With a spareblade from a utility knife, because it's thin enough to get it under the EL-panel, you can carefully cut the EL-panel free.
Slide the fresh EL-panel in and solder the connectors to the print.

Image
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby ahaigh01 » Thu Jun 11, 2015 3:33 pm

Thanks for posting this. I've been seriously considering replacing the backlights in my FZ-20 and FZ-1, so this will be useful info.
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby gmeredith » Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:53 am

The FZ-1 is easy, and is completely different to the racks. You just open the bonnet, undo a few screws and it's out, with a lead and a block connector attached to it. The racks are soldered in. I have a VZ10m with a dud backlight, it should be identical to the FZ10m - thanks for the instructions! I was thinking I had to pull the display off the pcb. That's great news.
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby ahaigh01 » Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:41 am

Here are some cool Casio things I found on Ebay and scanned. The Casio Professional Music Products Catalog - FZ-10M Brouchure - VZ-10M Insert - 1988.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/view/jjdp8miv8 ... -_1988.pdf
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby ahaigh01 » Fri Jun 26, 2015 2:41 pm

Robber1956 wrote:
ahaigh01 wrote:the keys are just a bit sticky because the foam rubber strip that the keys rest on is starting to go bad. I would like to replace that.


I had the same problem for years. So last year or so I decided to do something about it. I went to a litttle shop downtown where they sell ship equipment and found a self adhesive cell.rubber strip 10mm (0.4 inch) wide and 3 mm (0.1 inch) thick for 50ct a meter (about 3 feet, enough to cover the whole length of the keyboard). Fitted just right. You can find this everywhere on the internet. Just cut away the old rubber strip with a utility knife and remove the remains with some sticker remover and put the fresh one in. The keyboard now plays as smooth as if it was brand new and is really quiet, no rattling noise anymore and no sticky keys.



Robber


I did this repair to my FZ-1 last night. The process is fairly involved. You must remove the entire keyboard and remove every key. There is a self adhesive clear plastic strip that locks the ends of each key into its slot - this must be peeled off to release the keys. I threw it away when done because the keys are in no danger of coming loose when put back in. The spring holds the key in place and you would have to press extremely hard at the back of the key to get it to release from its slot without the strip in place.

Then I removed the old foam rubber strip. This part was hard because it had to be scraped away bit by bit with a knife. It took over an hour. The new strip I ordered was 10mm by 3mm, but this proved to be too wide because it overlapped some screws, so it had to be trimmed to about 6mm. Then just reassemble everything.

The keyboard feels great now! :D
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Re: Casio FZ1

Postby Robber1956 » Mon Jun 29, 2015 10:43 am

Just the rubber strip. After 25 years it was beyond recognition. one sticky, almost liquid mess. Didn't know with what to replace it. That was the hardest part. Once I found a suitable replacement it was easy. Especially using the sticker remover to get rid of the remains. First I thought to use the strip over the whole length but where the screws are in the way there is no contact with the keys so I cut it up rubber strip to fit the pieces between the screws. Really, if I play the keyboard all keys play so smooth and quiet now. Never had a better keyboard before. Only a pity that the max number of notes out you can play at the same time is 8.

Just another thing with the (mine?) FZ about both (DCA & DCF) envelopes. This has bothered me from day one. Setting the keyboard rate scaling/key follow and velocity sensetivity lower than the max. creating slower attack is really infuencing the parameters in an almost uncontrollable way. In fact it's all or nothing. Especially the decay rate. It "eats" up almost the complete first part of a sample.
A very complicated and thus unwanted way to get around this is to insert 'silence' in front of the sample. Perhaps it's possible to adjust the attack curve for the envelope somehow.
I tried to do it by making use of al the 8 steps of the envelopes using all possible decay and level settings, but it's still all or nothing. Very poor performance, in fact quite useless.
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