It went completely wrong.
Changed the EL of the FZ1, had to do it because data transfer through port cable was getting worse and I use it for loading the FZ10m (it also is a sign of things to come
After I changed the EL that problem was solved, but not for long with only 3000 hours to go. The EL that came out was from Backlight4you. Exactly the same as the new EL.
Perhaps I should switch off the EL panel during normal use and when editing and transfering switch it on, modding an external switch somewhere to save lifetime. Don't like it though.
Before all pixels where allright, now I lost partially top (which says 'main menu') and middle row (effect/midi).
Not a real disaster but still.
I know what I did wrong. I should not have touched the display itself at all (but I saw them doing it on all these sites concerning the replacement of the EL panel
Just DO NOT TOUCH the display. Don't unscrew the frame which holds the display. The slightest movement will break the very fragile connections between the ribbon cables and the display.
Just remove everything around it (midi panel, audio patch panel etc). and then pull the old EL out, which in this case was quite easy to do and shove the new one in. Still I can't guarantee that this will leave the connections unharmed. It simply reduces the chance that this will happen.
So within a year or two I wll need to change the backlicht in the FZ1 again. No EL panel anymore but leds or actually a single led.
Just like the one I put into my Yamaha TX7. That was really easy and cheap (Saymlove Ebay, 16 characters one line "1601" US $ 3,59). The DX100 will be next but is not so easy unless I can lay my hand on a similar LCD like the one in the TX7 but with the led on the left instead of the right side of the display so I don't have to cut away anything inside the DX100 and remove the only lovely red led this synth has on the right side of the display.
This type of LCD has just one led (5 v) and a piece of plastic that disperses the llight which gives a very even glow all over the surface.
So just a led (perhaps RGB with remote control to get any colour) and a piece of plastic diffuser cut into the right size and flat enough to fit underneath the display just like the EL (there is approximately room for 2 millimeters/0.1 inch) is all I need.
The solution to get the lost pixels back is perhaps to put some extra pressure on the LCD frame but it can also ruin the whole thing all together.