helloitabot wrote:From where I can see them they don't seem to be caught on the sides of the openings. It just seems like they aren't being pushed down far enough to complete the circuit. But I could be wrong...
helloitabot wrote:Mine has the carbon pellet silicon membrane. Looks exactly like in that video you posted. As I said I took off the membranes and cleaned the contacts just as in the video, put them back on and all the notes/keys played just fine when I reconnected the circuit board to the rest of the synth. It's just when I screw in the keyboard circuit board to the actual keyboard the notes don't fire properly, so It feels like the problem is mechanical.
schmidtc wrote:Old carbon and gold contacts will BOTH develop oxidization layers that break conductivity. You can't even see this oxide layer, but you just want to lightly and quickly rub these spots with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol 99% before you try something more harsh like chemtronics or add a new conductive layer. Using a fresh q-tip for every surface is best and the q-tip should slightly blacken when you rub the carbon black disc, too black and you're rubbing too hard.
I've heard some people have used a pink pencil eraser for rubbing off really oxidized surfaces, but I've never needed to even go that far. When you're putting the rubber strips back on, make sure that all the rubber pins are seated properly when you poke them back through.
Almost surely no need to mess with any type contact cleaner, and that might cause more problems then it solves.
rhino wrote: put stick-on 'dot' lables on the bottom of the keys and that extra 0.005 inch made it work. didn't like that junky fix, so ended up replacing the felt strip on the after-touch rail with new, thinner felt to let the keys go down a c**t-hair further. Someone will get rich someday reproducing the rubber key contacts for vintage gear.
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